El arte de vestir capas - H&F

The art of layering

The art of layering: jackets, coats, and overshirts in harmony

Layering isn't about accumulating garments: it's about balancing proportions, textures, and color to gain versatility. With a comfortable base, a mid-layer that provides structure, and an outer layer that protects, you can adjust your look to the weather and occasion without sacrificing style.

Fundamental principles

  • Proportion: from inside out → fitted → semi-fitted → relaxed. The outer garment should allow for closure without tension.
  • Textures: mix smooth + intermediate + pronounced (e.g., poplin + flannel + herringbone) for visual depth.
  • Color: limit to 1 main pattern (plaid, herringbone, pinstripe). The rest, plain and in the same palette or neutrals.
Detail of a suit with a matte tie and balance of textures
Balance of textures and proportions in layers.

The three layers: what each contributes

The base should slide under the jacket without wrinkling; the mid-layer adds structure and detail; the outer layer protects and completes the silhouette. Together, they create a system adaptable to different temperatures and dress codes.

  • Base (shirt): poplin, fine oxford or light turtleneck in cool weather.
  • Mid (overshirt or jacket):
    • Overshirt: texture and functionality (pockets), ideal in flannel, soft denim or light wool.
    • Jacket: verticality and presence; unstructured jackets work better with a coat over them.
  • Outer (coat): car coat, peacoat, trench or double-breasted. Prioritize natural shoulders and generous armholes to wear over a jacket.
Double-breasted plaid coat with natural shoulders and clean drape
Coat with natural shoulders: protects without collapsing the jacket.
Overshirt and unstructured jacket combined in layers
Coat + unstructured jacket: texture and verticality.

Ready-made formulas (from casual to formal)

  • Smart-casual: white shirt + tobacco flannel overshirt + navy trousers + sand coat.
  • Flexible office: light grey turtleneck + burgundy plaid jacket + graphite grey trousers + navy coat.
  • Elegant evening: white shirt + sand double-breasted jacket + black trousers + long black coat.
  • Travel/changing weather: knit polo + dark denim overshirt + navy unstructured jacket + beige trench + olive chinos.
Layering combination in sand and navy tones
Sand double-breasted jacket over a dark base
Dark denim overshirt with knit polo
Long black coat over a suit

Quick guide by climate

  • Temperate: cotton base + light overshirt; carry an unstructured jacket for cold interiors.
  • Dry cold: thin thermal + shirt + wool jacket + wool coat; add a combed wool scarf.
  • Rain/wind: shirt + overshirt + water-repellent trench/car coat; avoid very open weaves of wool as an outer layer.
Water-repellent trench combined with intermediate layers
Trench/car coat: defense against rain and wind.

Common mistakes and their solutions

  • Tight coat over a jacket: collapses shoulders. → Go up half a size or look for natural shoulders and generous armholes.
    • Too many patterns together: visual clutter. → Stick to one dominant pattern.
  • Three thick layers: rigidity. → Include a thin layer (thermal/jersey) for mobility.
  • Confusing palette: more than 3 strong colors overwhelm. → Neutrals + 1 accent.
Layers work when there is order (proportion), interest (texture) and coherence (color). With these rules, your jackets, coats and overshirts work as a team: they provide warmth, style and adapt to your day.

Discover the AW/2025 collection

Build your layers with jackets, coats and overshirts in harmony.

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